Peru
Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail

Dominating the Urubamba river valley, Northeast of the ancient city of Cuzco, the Machu Picchu mountain stands. The name has extended to the arqueologic remains that lie hidden in its jungle. Machu Picchu was hidden from the occidental world for four centuries, until 1911, when Hiram Bingham had the honor and fortune of finding it and showing it to the world. Its strategic location makes it almost inaccessible. Until just a few years ago, the only way to get there was a three or four day hike, full of jungle descents and ascents, called the Inca Trail, now one of the world's most famous trekking. All year round, travelers from all across the world make the pilgrimage to Cusco in order to walk up the mountain and access the beauty of Peruvian jungle and the mysteries enclosed by the Machu Picchu's stone walls.

Starting point

To the Incas, Cusco was the belly button of the world. Many travelers and adventurers agree, and assure that this city id an overwhelming energy source. Because of its arquelogic sites, it was named Arqueologic Capital of South America. In Cusco, one construction is built over another, and together they all form millenniums of civilization.

The adventure

The Inca Trail

The Incas had roads that united the empire from end to end. The most important of these was the Royal Road, with a total extension of 5.200 km. It started in Quito, went through Cusco and ended in what is now the province of Tucumán, in Argentina, across mountains and jungles, at a maximum height of 5.000 meters. The Road of the Coast was 4.000 km long, parallel to the sea, and connected to the Royal Road at several points. Communication between different points of the empire was in charge of messengers called "chasquis". With a system of relays, the chasquis could run a message form Quito to Cusco, 2.000 km away, in ten days. The Inca Emperor could eat fresh fish brought from the coast, 200 km away, in a single day.

The Inca Trail was the road that united Cusco and Machu Picchu, and today it is the most famous trekking in the continent. Although the city can now be reached on a train and then a bus, the best way to experience the territory is to travel the way it has been done for centuries. It is a three day trekking with steep ascents and descents, frequent rain an nights in raw camping grounds. If it sounds tough, its because it is, but the reward is well worth it. Whoever walks the Inca Trail never forgets it.

Most excursions start out in the railway's km 88 (Qoriwayrachina region), half an hour from Cusco or Ollantaytambo. 2000 meters above the sea, the Inca Trail begins. It is 40 km long. During the journey, the maximum height is 4200 meters.

Before beginning the journey, it is necessary to acquire the adequate equipment for three days and nights in the mountains. Minimum equipment consists of: A small tent, a sleeping bag, foam mattress, rain jacket, trekking shoes, warm clothes (the nights are cold because of the height), a canteen, flashlight, first aid kit, food, pills to make the water drinkable and personal hygiene items. It is important to not carry too much weight for the hike.

The trail is winding, with staircases and narrow stretches beside cliffs. On the lower stretches, travelers can see the jungle below, most of the time, it is covered by clouds. There are also several sets of ruins along the way. The thick vegetation is a consequence of the heavy rains; it is almost impossible to walk the trail and stay dry the whole way.

The first day

The journey begins in Km 88, travelers pass by the control station and pay a fee for the rights to enter the National Historic Sanctuary and then crosses a modern bridge, built on Inca foundations. The first day of walking is relatively easy. After a while, travelers arrive at the Patallaqta arqueologic site. After this, the walk follows the Kusichaka river, up, towards the South. Then a small wooden bridge called Hatunchaka (Great Bridge), the Yunkachinpa community and finally the population of Wayllabamba, where some material remains of the Inca Empire are still found. This is the last place to acquire food and drinks before arriving at Wiñaywayna. Many excursions spend the first night here.

Second day

The second day is the hardest; pilgrims reach Wiñuay Wuayna with the last light of the day, after ascending endless staircases. After Wiñuay Wuayna, found at 2800 meters above the sea, the road carries on towards the Northwest, following the banks of the Llulucha river. This leads to the longest ascent in the journey, which ends in the Warmiwañusca (Dead Woman) Pass, 4200 meters high. The air is very cold here and sometimes there is snow. It is recommended to not stay long here, because the air lacks oxygen. Next is a descent that takes travelers to the Pakaymayu (Hidden River) Valley, where the expedition rests for the night.

Third day

From the camping grounds in Pakaymayu, a new ascent creeps up to the Runkuraqay arqueologic site. On the left of the road, a view of the Yanaqocha (Black Lake) Lagoon. After reaching the Runkuraqay Pass, the trail descends again, towards the Sayaqmarka arqueologic site. Further on is a plain called Chakilqocha (Dry Lake), which is frequently used as camping grounds. This leads to a 20 meter long tunnel built into the mountain's rocks. It is surprisingly wide and comfortable. This lead to Phuyupatamarka, 3680 meters above the sea, and then the descent to Wiñaywayna. Here there are sanitary installations, showers and food and drink sales. Travelers usually spend the night here.

Fourth day

On the fourth day of walking, travelers who seek the sacred city in an old fashioned way wake up early. After some walking, travelers and daylight arrive at Inti Punku, the "Gate of the Sun". From here, lucky travelers get to witness the rising of the Sun, the Inca God. Beneath, the city of Machu Picchu.

The sacred city

The ruins of Machu Picchu receive 200.000 tourists, adventurers and mystics every year. After centuries of mystery, arqeuologists still can't agree on what the city was actually built for. Some think it was a hidden fortress to fight the Spanish invaders (some say that Manco Capac II used it as a hiding place), others think it was inhabited by priestesses, for most of the bodies found there were women. The most firm theories sustain that this hidden city, 130 km from Cusco, was a government city, from where the conquered regions were controlled. There are several of these, called "llactas", but Machu Picchu is unlike the rest. It is the most beautiful among them, designed to hide the finest of Inca aristocracy. The location of the city was a military secret, the mountains were the best natural defense system.

According to archeologists, the city was divided in three sections: The Sacred Neighborhood, the one for Priests and Nobles (residential), and the Popular Neighborhood. In the first section, dedicated to divinity, are the most important arqueologic remains: Intiwatana, the Temple of the Sun and the Room with Three Windows.

All the buildings in Machu Picchu follow the classic Inca style: constructions with polished, flat rock walls, composed by rocks of such different sizes and shapes that imagining how they pieced them together is still impossible. The area holds 140 buildings: temples, sanctuaries, parks and residences. There are more than 100 stone staircases, and a great amount of fountains, connected by amazing canals and ditches carved into the rock, used as an irrigation system.

For those who dare, there is still another challenge. Climb Wayna Pichhu, the huge sacred hill that guards the city, where a succession of staircases are placed in an almost impossible angle, unfit for those who are afraid of heights. These lead to a fascinating view of the city and its surroundings.